Quick guide: Helsinki Christmas in a nutshell
Helsinki is truly a Christmas City. But maybe not in the way you’d expect. Glitter, flashy lights and non-stop cacophony are not a Helsinkian thing. Soft lights, candles and sounds muffled by snow more so.
Yet, there is also a buzz to the city over this time as Christmas markets come to life, churches and music halls brim with people, museums and libraries are open late…and most public saunas heat up throughout the holidays!
Grab a cup of glögi, your favourite festive jumper, and hop on to reading our tips for an authentic Nordic Noël.
All that glitters is not gold – balance is the key
Christmas in Helsinki is so much more than jingles and bells. The dark time of the year and cold temperatures offer the chance to discover the calm and peaceful side of Helsinki. Compared to all the glittering Christmas cities around the world, the Finnish capital is like an urban retreat that energises and soothes you with its hot saunas, beautiful nature, and both new and old traditions.
Enjoy Christmas with all your senses in Helsinki! The season is filled with the scent of glögi (mulled wine), spiced coffees, homemade gingerbread cookies, fir trees and branches. Christmas lights are all around too. But in a sophisticated way, we say.
A walk through the illuminated city
The Christmas season in Helsinki begins already at the end of November, when the Christmas lights along the Aleksanterinkatu shopping street are turned on. Step off the train at Helsinki Central railway station and find yourself in the midst of a Winter Wonderland. The surrounding streets, especially Aleksanterinkatu and the walkway of Esplanadi Park, light up the city from head to toe. Try not to wander too far down the seam of illuminated joy or you might miss the Christmas window display at Stockmann’s. This beloved seasonal attraction (est. 1949!) featuring enchanting fairytale scenery is bound to warm you up even on the coldest of winter days.
Fun fact: When you’re lucky and the Christmas is white, all these lights are enveloped in snow, making the scenery even more magical. Fingers crossed!
Helsinki Christmas
City of Light
The party before the peace
You don’t often hear Christmas being described as anything close to ‘little’, but in Helsinki the festivities end up being so big that there’s no choice but to break it up into smaller events throughout the Advent season leading up to the big bang on the 24th.
These events have been coined as Pikkujoulut, directly translating to “Little Christmas” parties. But don’t fret (or do) as there’s nothing little about them. These gatherings hold a certain kind of mystique you’d have to see for yourself, so seek out bars, cafés and restaurants, as you may find a secret invite inside! (Pst! Nowadays, many combine their Pikkujoulu-party with Finland’s Independence Day on 6 December!).
Fun fact: Little Christmas parties are sometimes also called Porridge parties (Puurojuhlat), as the main dish served is often traditional rice porridge (with or without plum sauce – but most definitely with a lucky almond!). Speaking of luck, the days of notorious and liquor-filled company Pikkujoulu-parties are pretty much a thing of the past.
Then
Now
Bazaars beneath the boughs
Tis’ the season to be jolly, and we know right where to go for a cup of cheer. Located in Senate Square is the oldest Christmas market Helsinki has to offer. Tuomaan markkinat as the Helsinkians call it, is gushing with festivities. If you’re on the hunt for cutlery made out of reindeer antlers, beautifully-crafted gifts, glögi (mulled wine, remember?), or local produce like fresh fish and meat – you can find it all here! Best of all it holds a massive Christmas tree and even an old-fashioned merry-go-round (kids ride for free!).
For more artsy vibe, head to the Old Student House Christmas Market nearby – the iconic venue Vanha opposite Stockmann’s hosts the most amazing Christmas bazaar selling locally made ceramics, jewellery, clothes, design and more. For a truly urban experience go to the Teurastamo Christmas Market in the cool Kalasatama neighbourhood.
Cold cheeks and winter heat – from sauna to the sea
Helsinki starts to anticipate the first fall of snow around November and you can sense the emerging calm it brings all around. When the city submerges in its new found glory…the best part? Watching over the frozen sea from the warm embrace of a traditional Christmas sauna. Or dipping right in and back to safety!
Join in on the age-old practice of relaxation and cleanse before Christmas Eve, welcoming the New Year with a sense of tranquility and harmony that it brings. Public saunas such as the iconic Kotiharjun sauna can be found throughout Helsinki and most (!) are open both on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.
Lucia leads as Helsinki sings
Each year a young maiden is crowned to represent St. Lucia, bringing light into the darkness of winter on Lucia Day, the 13th of December. Dressed in white with a red built and crown of candles, watch as she descends the steps of the Helsinki cathedral, naturally accompanied by elves. Together they parade around the city centre, draping the city in lustre and love.
The community roars as the season of rest settles in, and you can find tunes of tradition all around. Catch a glimpse of star singers, “tiernapojat”, performing a musical play depicting the Three Wise Men. If the traditional versions don’t spark your spirit, keep an eye (or ear) out for jazz and rock variations.
Fun fact: In the olden days, men would dress up in horned goat costumes and roam the city while servant girls would set the tables of the bourgeoisie with lutefisk, barley porridge and Christmas beer. Christmas trees, Christmas cards and Christmas flowers were introduced in the 1800s. Christmas in Helsinki these days is an intriguing mix of old and new traditions.
Christmas traditions
Helsinki
The Gospel of giving and embracing the darkness
Christmas is the most favoured church holiday in Finland and many join in regardless of religious affiliation. Most Finns await the peace and quiet after the mad rush leading up to Christmas. Serenity gathers on the 24th when the Declaration of Christmas peace is announced, but long before Finns stop by cemeteries and churches to embrace the closeness of community, surrounded by candle-light, hymns and carols. We recommend a Christmas concert in the breathtaking architectural wonder Temppeliaukio Church – or singing carols (in just about any Helsinkian church, take your pick!).
Fun fact: As an old tradition, you can see Christmas collection kettles appearing all around and gifts pile up under trees in shopping centres – these gifts get redistributed to children all over the country, honouring the spirit of Father Christmas. Visitors are welcomed with open arms to join in as Helsinki gets in the mood of giving.
Meeting Santa and the elves
Once upon a time, young men would dress up like Father Christmas, or rather the “Yule Goat” (“Joulupukki” in Finnish), and go from door to door demanding gifts and leftovers from the Yule feast. These Yule Goats wore masks of birch bark, horns on their heads and animal skins on their backs. In Helsinki these rather frightening figures were tamed in the 1830s, and they began to wear simple grey cloaks and bring gifts for children. Red-jacketed Santa Clauses began to appear in the first half of the 20th century and replaced the grey-cloaked figures by the 1960s and 1970s. These days in Helsinki you might even come across a Santa Claus dressed up like Superman and swinging a lasso!
Fun tip: You may certainly find Santa in the Helsinki Christmas Market on Senate Square, but he keeps popping around the city throughout the season – until he has to head back to Lapland and delivering all those gifts, of course.
