Welcome to Lauttasaari: The island of happy people

Photo Mariia Kauppi

Lauttasaari (Swedish: Drumsö) is a lush, seaside gem—equal parts peaceful retreat and vibrant neighbourhood. Accessible yet serene, it’s a place where rocky shores, urban nature, and marinas whisper a slower rhythm—one that invites you to breathe deeply and soak in Finnish everyday bliss. Nestled just 3 km west of Helsinki’s city centre, Lauttasaari proves that in Helsinki you don’t have to go far to experience the best of Finnish nature.

In a country consistently ranked among the happiest in the world, Lauttasaari stands out as the island of the happy people—an inviting blend of cozy homes, restorative green spaces, summer cottages, and a shoreline in public use as far as the eye can see. Winter wraps the island in crisp air and soft snow, drawing hardy locals to ice-swimming holes and steaming saunas. As spring arrives, the light grows longer each day, painting the sea and sky in ever-changing tones and tempting walkers, runners, and cyclists back to the coastal paths. Summer brings warm-water swims, sailing, and café terraces buzzing with life, alongside lively games on the island’s athletic fields and workouts at its many open-air gyms. Autumn transforms the shoreline into a sweep of gold and amber, the sports fields still alive with activity until the cooler winds hint at winter’s return.

 

Why visit Lauttasaari

Lauttasaari’s charm lies in its balance between nature and neighbourhood life. Almost all of its shoreline is open to the public, meaning anyone can follow the coastal path past rocky outcrops, sandy beaches, and quiet coves. For runners or anyone looking for a long, scenic walk, keep an eye out for a pink band wrapped around light posts – follow this discreet marker and you’ll trace a beautiful trail that loops the entire island, with the sea nearly always in sight. Along the way, you’ll also come across several outdoor gyms, open year-round, where locals pause mid-run for a quick workout or meet friends for a community fitness session with the sea as their backdrop.

The island has two main beaches, each with its own personality. Kasinonranta Beach is the larger and livelier of the two, with a wide sweep of sand, a beach café, changing rooms, volleyball courts, and a social atmosphere that hums on warm summer days. Families spread out on picnic blankets, teenagers plunge off the pier, and swimmers head out for long laps in the calm shallows. In contrast, Veijarivuorenranta Beach on the southern shore is smaller and more peaceful, tucked into a sheltered cove with views that stretch out towards open water. It’s a place for quiet reading, sunbathing, or an unhurried dip—and in the colder months, the starting point for a bracing winter swim followed by a sauna at Paseo Cafe.

Photo Mariia Kauppi

Locals come to Lauttasaari not just for its beaches but for the simple pleasures that define island life: wandering through pine groves where the scent of resin hangs in the air, sitting on smooth granite rocks to watch the sea change colour with the sky, or paddling along the shore in a kayak. The island’s parks, playgrounds, and walking routes make it a favourite for families, while its marinas and sailing clubs attract those who feel most at home on the water. It is this combination of community spirit, easygoing atmosphere, and closeness to nature that earns Lauttasaari its sunny nickname – a small island that somehow holds all the elements of happiness in one place.

Day 1: Arrive and explore

While Lauttasaari doesn’t have large hotels, it offers a handful of cosy serviced apartments and boutique-style stays. Just beyond the island, Hanaholmen is a design-forward refuge in a pristine archipelago setting. Its rooms are filled with Nordic light and art, and mornings begin with a sauna and a dip in the sea—icy in winter, sparkling in summer. With quick metro or bus connections, it’s an ideal base for enjoying the island while still feeling like you’re on a retreat.

Morning

Begin your first morning on Lauttasaari with the scent of butter and fresh bread drifting from Le Jardin, the island’s French-style bakery on Lauttasaarentie. Step inside for a still-warm croissant or a glossy lemon tart, hand-crafted by pastry chef Olivier Lucas, and savour it with a coffee while the neighbourhood stirs to life. This is just as blissful in winter, when the windows fog gently against the cold, as it is in summer with the doors open to the street.

Afternoon

From here, wander towards Lauttasaari Manor, a bright white 19th-century landmark surrounded by parkland. In spring and summer, the grounds are green and buzzing with life; in autumn, the trees glow amber; and in winter, the snow muffles the space into a postcard scene. For lunch, head to Paseo Café & Grill, a uniquely Lauttasaari spot where you can enjoy seasonal dishes right beside the sea. While Paseo does have a sauna, it can only be reserved for groups — so if you’re craving the true Finnish sauna experience and don’t have 10 people with you, plan to visit Uusi Sauna in nearby Jätkäsaari instead.

Evening

Finish your first day with dinner at Pizzeria Luca, where wood-fired crusts meet generous toppings in a warm, casual setting. This place bakes in the top league not only in Finland, but the whole of Europe (yes, we’re bragging), the delicious and cheesy goodness landing it repeatedly in top 50 in the internationally recognised 50 Top Pizza -competition. In summer, the terrace hums with conversation and the scent of fresh basil; in winter, the cosy interior and the sight of the pizza oven’s glow make it just as inviting. Afterwards, take a stroll along the shoreline, letting the evening light — long and golden in summer, soft and silvery in winter — wrap up your first island day.

Day 2: Active island adventures

Photo Unto Rautio

Morning

Ease into the day at Kahvilla Mutteri, a small, retro-style café that feels like a local secret. Pair a strong coffee with a pastry, then set out along the pink-band trail that loops the island. In summer, expect sailboats and swimmers; in autumn, golden leaves crunch underfoot; in winter, the air is crisp and the shoreline edged with ice.

Afternoon

Make your way to the Särkiniemi Swimming Pier at the island’s southern tip. This spot offers broad sea views year-round, and in summer it’s a favourite for swimming and sunbathing. The headland also carries a strong trace of Lauttasaari’s military past — during the Crimean War in 1855–1856, the island’s first artillery batteries were completed at Veijarivuorenniemi, Särkiniemi, Länsiulapanniemi, and possibly also Vaskiniemi. In 1885, a gunpowder storehouse was excavated into the rock here at Särkiniemi, and you can still imagine the strategic role these shores once played.
If wartime history interests you, another stop worth making is the Grave of the Unknown Soldier along Länsiväylä near Lemisaari, on the opposite side of the island. This simple rock memorial marks the resting place of Joseph Johan Back, a soldier who fell defending Lauttasaari in 1855 during the Crimean War.

Just inland from Särkiniemi Swimming Pier lies one of Helsinki’s most distinctive summer cottage areas in Länsiulapanniemi. In 1928, the City of Helsinki began offering poorer residents a new kind of recreation in the form of fabric tents, initially in Varsasaari and Satamasaari. But the Finnish summer can be unpredictable, and soon residents asked permission to build something sturdier. Eventually, they were allowed to construct tiny wooden cottages. To ensure the area remained attractive, architect Hilding Ekelund was commissioned in 1946 to create a single design for all the cottages. The maximum size permitted was just 12 square metres including the terrace, plus an additional two square metres for storage. The residents own the cottages but not the land, which is zoned as a public recreation area. There is no electricity, and water is turned on only in summertime. Outdoor dry toilets are shared. It’s a truly minimalist, eco-friendly lifestyle — one that has changed little over the decades.
For a satisfying mid-day lunch, head to Ravintola Bistro Telakka. Well-loved by locals, Telakka blends a relaxed bistro feel with fresh, seasonal cooking. The menu shifts with the produce, but you might find hearty fish soups, inventive vegetarian plates, or beautifully cooked meat dishes. In summer, its terrace is a winner — catching the light and the sea breeze in just the right way — while in winter, the warm interior and friendly service make it a cosy refuge before continuing your day.

Evening

Venture just off the island for dinner in Jätkäsaari or Ruoholahti. For seafood, Merimakasiini offers classic Finnish fish dishes in a harbour-side setting. If you’re after something more contemporary, Ravintola Faro serves creative Nordic cuisine with waterfront views. For a special occasion, book a table at Restaurant Demo, a Michelin-starred destination where inventive tasting menus meet refined service — all enjoyed with a view that pairs beautifully with the plates. And for something more relaxed yet still refined, BasBas Kulma is a neighbourhood wine bar serving outstanding small dishes perfect for sharing.

Day 3: Shopping, and a farewell toast

Morning

Start your final day with breakfast at Patisserie Teemu Aura, where you can enjoy inventive pastries, freshly baked breads, and expertly made coffee. Whether you eat in or take away, it’s a perfect way to ease into your last hours on the island.

Photo Unto Rautio

Afternoon

Dedicate your last afternoon to exploring Lauttasaari’s shopping scene. Kaarna Living curates timeless homewares and lifestyle items. Villa Alba specialises in ecological, fair-trade clothing that looks as good as it feels to buy. The Halti Outlet offers outdoor gear at excellent prices, perfect if the island has inspired you to get out in nature more often. And at Moiko (check their opening hours), you can pick up responsible gifts — from gloves to accessories — often made in collaboration with Finnish designers and recently in partnership with a Ukrainian company to support the war effort.

For a nautical twist, browse one of the island’s many boat supply stores. Even if you’re not setting sail, there’s something charming about exploring shelves of maritime gear and imagining the summer voyages they’ll soon take.

Farewell stop

If time allows before you go, stop by Solmu Brewery. This small, locally-run brewery serves its own craft beers — from crisp lagers to seasonal specials — alongside a menu of hearty, well-made pub food. And there’s more on the horizon: in autumn 2025, Solmu will open a Japanese-Scandinavian sauna section with a pool downstairs. Designed to create a gentle, warm, maritime atmosphere that can be enjoyed all year round, the sauna experience will be perfectly paired with beers and food from the taproom upstairs. Follow their social media for updates as the opening approaches.

Goodbye, for now, Lauttasaari

Photo Beatrice Bucht

Before you leave, take a final shoreline walk. In summer, pause on a sunny bench to watch the sailboats come and go; in winter, breathe in the crisp sea air one last time. Then it’s time to say goodbye to Lauttasaari — but not to Helsinki. The city has many more neighbourhoods waiting to be discovered, from the design boutiques and cafés of Punavuori to the market halls of Hakaniemi and the colourful wooden houses of Vallila. Lauttasaari may be the island of happy people, but it’s also a perfect starting point for getting to know the many faces of Finland’s capital.